We visited nine NPS sites in five days on the way home from Maine for a total of 18 NPS sites on this 23 day trip.
NEW HAMPSHIRE AND VERMONT
One of our goals is to visit all of the NPS sites in each state. That was easy in Vermont and New Hampshire. They each have one NPS site. We visited them both in one day. The two monuments celebrate the unique and remarkable lives of the individual homeowners.
Marsh-Billings–Rockefeller NHP
This is the only national park to highlight conservation history and the evolving nature of land stewardship in America. The three named owners each contributed to these efforts: Marsh was an early conservationist, Billings improved forest management and established a progressive dairy, and Laurence and Mary French Rockefeller were philanthropists and conservationists who donated the land to the NPS.
The gardens included a pool and formal flower garden.
Saint-Gaudens NHP
This national monument preserves the 1860 home, gardens, and studio of Augustus Saint-Gaudens, one of Americas foremost Beaux-Arts sculptors, bas relief artist, and founder of the Cornish Artist Colony.
The Lincoln is his most well-known work.
His work is artfully displayed in garden rooms walled by shrubs, or housed in structures throughout the property.
NEW YORK
We visited five New York NPS sites along the Hudson River.
Saratoga NHP
The Continental army’s decisive victory at Saratoga in 1777 was a turning point in the Revolutionary War. It was the first defeat suffered by the mighty British army, prompting the French to side with the Continentals. “At Saratoga, the British campaign that was intended to crush America’s rebellion ended instead in a surrender that changed the history of the world.” Richard Ketchum, author.
The Continental army strategically used the Hudson River.
We took the nine-mile driving tour. The Neilson’s Farm which served as Benedict Arnold’s headquarters has been restored to its appearance at the time of the war.
Martin Van Buren NHS
The eighth President of the U. S. returned to his 36-room and 220-acre Lindenwald farming estate in Kinderhook, NY after his one-term presidency ended. Van Buren, whose parents were Dutch, was the only president who spoke English as a second language.
Although a relatively little known president, he continued to maintain a presence in politics, especially on discussions surrounding slavery, eventually running for president four times.
Angelica, his 20 year-old daughter-in-law acted as White House hostess since Van Buren was widowed. He died upstairs in his bedroom.
Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt NHS
Springwood, in Hyde Park NY, was the birthplace, lifelong home, and burial place for the 32nd President of the U.S.
This statue of FDR at 29 sits in the entry hall in front of a case of a portion of his boyhood collection of 300 birds. FDR collected most of the birds on the grounds and learned the art of taxidermy to preserve them. The entry also displays political cartoons and naval paintings.
Roosevelt worked on and displayed his vast private collections in the library. His collections included 14,000 books, 2,000 naval paintings, 200 ship models, 1,2 million stamps, and campaign memorabilia.
FDR’s chair presides here and in other rooms of the house. The President who with Churchill and Stalin led us through the war to prevent Hitler’s world domination also successfully hid the fact that he was unable to walk from the world at large.
The tour guide said this was Eleanor’s bedroom post-Polio (as a precaution against spreading the disease). Other sources mention an agreement struck to preserve FDR’s political dreams when Eleanor found love letters from Lucy Mercer, FDR’s long-time mistress. Either way, for me this bedroom represented the complicated relationship of this remarkable couple, and how they accomplished so much in the face of many adversities.
Two years before his death, he donated the property to the American public. Since 1945 the NPS has administered the property.
Eleanor Roosevelt NHS
This site is the only memorial devoted to the life and work of a first lady. This trip has given me a much greater appreciation for Eleanor Roosevelt. Orphaned at young age, at a time when women lacked financial, political, or social power, Eleanor used her position to draw attention to the plight of those less fortunate and bring about meaningful change.
This very modest home was Eleanor’s refuge, particularly since FDR’s mother Sara was the owner and matriarch or their other homes. Especially after FDR’s death she received visitors and spent time here. President Kennedy visited during his campaign to gain her endorsement.
She lobbied FDR on behalf of various causes. After FDR’s death she was appointed by Truman to the delegation of the U. N. where she chaired the U. N. Commission on Human Rights and oversaw the drafting and approval of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. The grounds included various structures and gardens including a furniture factory originally owned by Eleanor and her friends that they promoted as a New Deal initiative.
Vanderbilt Mansion NHS
The 54-room Vanderbilt Mansion in Hyde Park was one of the seasonal residences of Frederick and Louise Vanderbilt. They also maintained houses in New York City, Newport, Bar Harbor, and the Adirondacks. Frederick was the grandson of Commodore Cornelius Vanderbilt, the railroad and shipping magnet, who built the family’s wealth.
The first two generations of Vanderbilts were the richest families in America. By the mid-20th century, after the “fall” of the Vanderbilts, many of their mansions were torn down.
The opulent interiors are furnished with European antiques, imported marble, exotic wood, and antique French tapestries.
The Vanderbilt’s niece donated the house and original furnishings to the NPS at the urging of FDR.
The Hudson River location was stunning. But the interiors were overly opulent for my taste.
PENNSYLVANIA
Gettysburg NMP
We went to Gettysburg one morning to visit two of the most memorable battlefields based on our prior visit – Picketts Charge and Little Round Top.
Last time we were at Gettysburg we walked the length of the field at Pickett’s Charge. This time we were drawn to the NC monument at there. The sculptor was Borglum, who was best known for his work on Mount Rushmore. The monument commemorates the bravery of the NC infantry which suffered 25% of the Confederate casualties in Lee’s “lost cause” charge.
We also visited Little Round Top where the North’s battle engineer G. K. Warren was responsible for designing the winning strategy that resulted in the North’s successful defense of this vital position.
Lincoln’s statue commemorates the famous address delivered here. The impactful 272 words are placed on a nearby rock’s plaque, evoking the rocks strewn over the battlefield.
Eisenhower NHS
Near the end of his military service the Eisenhowers chose Gettysburg, PA as their “retirement” locale based on fond memories of Gettysburg from his early army career. It is the only house that President Esenhower and his wife Mamie ever owned. Retirement was delayed when Eisenhower was elected the 34th President of the U.S.
During the Presidential years, the home, with its peaceful setting, served as a weekend retreat as well as a meeting place for world leaders. Notably, Nikita Khrushchev visited in an effort to reduce Cold War tensions.
We toured the grounds and barn but missed the home tour. Thankfully the NPS website has a very nice 360 virtual tour with informational signs.
The grounds include gardens, teahouse, skeet range, putting green, helicopter pad, two railroad era bells, and Angus cattle and show barn.
Food
Our post-Maine culinary delights included melt in your mouth BBQ from at John Fazio’s and amazing hamburger wraps from Everyday Cafe and Pub in charming Contoocook, NH.
Bridges
We zig zagged across the rivers in NH and NY. When we realized we were approaching a covered bridge labelled as 9’ 2″ clearance, we scrambled to determine our Tab’s clearance. I am not sure why Joe kept driving because I am pretty sure our Tab’s height is more like 9′ 4″ or 9′ 6″. Somehow we made it but let’s don’t try that again. One of the charming covered bridges admonished us to “walk our horses or pay two dollars fine”.
Trip Summary
We dashed home like horses heading for the barn after visiting our last park. During our 23 night trip we stayed in 11 campgrounds in nine states (SC, VA, MD, CT, ME, NH, VT, NY, and PA). It was satisfying to add the nine states to the map on the side of the Tab.
We visited 18 NPS sites on our Maine trip (from N to S order) – Katahdin, St. Croix Islands, Acadia, Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller, Saint- Gaudens, Saratoga, Martin Van Buren, Vanderbilt, Home of FDR, Eleanor Roosevelt, Gettysburg, Eisenhower, Antietam, Harpers Ferry, Cedar Creek and Belle Grove, C & O Canal, Appomattox, and Booker T. Washington. One of the 18 NPS sites is a National Park (Acadia) and one is an International Park (St. Croix Islands).
Closing note: We thought we might be anonymous in Maine since we were so far from home. But our Facebook friends followed along on our trip, offering great advice on where to stop and what to do. We visited a fellow Albanian in Maine.
Maybe because there is almost always a prominent UGA emblem somewhere on our attire, but we got a lot of “Go Dawgs” greetings and folks were constantly stopping us to chat about where we were from and where we were going.
We also connected with fellow campers. For instance, almost as if we followed their trail, we camped at the same three spots in Maine as a family camping beside us on the Maine-Canada border, and we chatted with them about research related to doctoral studies. We also met a Georgia couple at the Acadia campsite and ran into them the next week in southern NY when they camped beside us. We shared tips about tow vehicles and RVs and told tales around the campfire until nearly midnight. They were fellow UGA fans.
This was our longest trip by far in the RV. In some ways it was a proof of concept. How would we handle the constant travel, the constant 24-7 companionship, the RV maintenance problems that might pop up. On all fronts it was a success. The trip affirmed our choice to buy a smaller pull behind TAB to transition into RVs, and we are already looking forward to our next adventure on Bishops Next Move.
