One might wonder why we did not go to Cape Lookout when we were “in the neighborhood” – visiting the other coastal NPS sites in NC. The answer is that Cape Lookout is hours and hours out of the way from just about anywhere. Plus, a ferry ride is required, and we needed to rent a 4×4 to see more of the island. In short, we had to make a special trip.
We were in Tennessee that weekend on another one of our quests in the last few years – visiting the away SEC stadiums. Neyland Stadium in Knoxville has been one of the best so far. We saw the “Vol Walk” with the players and the band entering the stadium. We also saw the Vol Navy flotilla on the Tennessee River and had great meals downtown before and after the game.
Our fourth row seats were right behind the snare drums in the band and directly in front of the cheerleaders. The 90,000 plus Tennessee fans were frenzied and loud. Shoved into the corner of the stadium, the UGA crowd of 10,000 was nonetheless joyous and electric.
The next day we drove nine hours out of our way, across the entire state of North Carolina and half of Tennessee, to complete our last NPS site in NC and our last in the contiguous Southeastern U.S.
There are several ferries to Cape Lookout. Since we wanted to rent an ATV we took the Harkers Island ferry. The short three-mile ride included a stop to drop off a few lucky folks at Shakleford Banks. Then one of the most photographed of North Carolina’s iconic lighthouses came into view and centered itself between the lighthouse keepers house and the assistant keepers house.
After a short orientation, we were handed the keys to our very loud, slow, bone-rattlingly bumpy Kabota to begin our exciting journey. The ATV made this remote island more accessible. Interesting how this type vehicle is not welcome on Cumberland Island National Seashore where few modern conveniences are provided. Should they be? For now I appreciate the fact that these parks are managed differently. This way we are able to have different experiences in parks and see them from different viewpoints.
First we rode the sandy path through the interior of the island.
The life saving station provided a visual reminder of the ravages of time and harsh conditions on Cape Lookout’s position in the path of high winds and hurricanes. The station was responsible for providing rescue services in the hazardous Cape Lookout Shoals, which extend ten miles into the Atlantic Ocean. The heroic surfmen rowed small boats to the site of wrecks, loaded victims, and took them to safety in daring rescues.
The village was founded in 1887 and was inhabited until the 1960s. The rest of the settlement houses showed glimpses of former glory.
Then we turned the ATV to the star of the show, the vast wild beach, and made our way to the point.
Jutting out into the Atlantic, the point is the spot to go for shelling and fishing.
There were dozen of brave souls camping overnight on the beach in the incessant unrelenting wind for a more thorough solitude and for extended fishing.
The lighthouse provided a point of reference throughout the island.
The keepers house was previously home to the staff of three full-time keepers.
Later, the assistance keeper’s house provided more room so that families could join the keepers. The haunting beauty and barren landscape surrounding the house made me wonder whether I could live here in this environment?
This trip was absolutely worth driving nine hours out of our way. In preparation for our trip I had watched videos, listened to podcasts, and read a good deal about Cape Lookout. But none of that prepared me for the raw, unfiltered beauty of this spot at the edge of civilization.
Our only regret was that we did not have time to visit Shackleford Banks where 100 wild horses live. Maybe we can stay longer next time – perhaps in one of the cabins or in some type of truck camper of our own. One can always dream!
For now, though, we are looking forward to the Virgin Islands after Christmas, when we can completely finish the SE NPS sites. That will call for a big celebration before we begin the next leg of our NPS quest.