On this section of our Maine trip we spent five nights near Acadia NP where the geography, beaches, architecture, flora and fauna were markedly different from southern Maine. We reveled in Acadia’s rugged natural beauty.
CAMDEN
Camden Windjammer Cruise
We stopped in Camden on the way to Acadia for a spontaneous two-hour cruise on the Appledore II, a two-sail schooner hand-built in 1978 for a two-year sailing trip around the world.
A pea soup fog limited visibility. We blew the fog hog horn every two or three minutes to alert others that we were there and listened for other boat’s horns and the bells on the buoys. Captain Katie said the bells had different tones to lead you out.
This was our view. Look closely for the boats….
We relaxed, trusted the process, and learned a lot about sailing.
Joe helped to raise the front sail.
Finally the fog cleared enough to barely see the privately owned and maintained Indian Island Lighthouse outside of Rockport.
On the return trip we could finally see the islands and harbor boats that the fog had obscured earlier.
The beautiful Curtis Island Lighthouse stood at the mouth of the harbor.
ACADIA NATIONAL PARK
Our first day in Acadia was July 8th, exactly 108 years after the park was founded on July 8, 1916. Acadia’s iconic rocky coastline, lush green forests, and clear lakes make it one of the most visited National Parks.
Cadillac Mountain
At 1,530 feet, Cadillac Mountain is the highest point on the eastern seaboard in the U. S. We spent two hours on the summit just after sunrise.
Joe searched and found the summit geo marker embedded in a boulder behind the gift shop. Only then did he feel entitled to buy a memento of the marker.
Cadillac Mountain’s pink granite was formed millions of years ago as magma cooled, hardened, and crystalized. Glacial ice sculpted the landscape by rounding off the mountains, carving lakes, and strewing boulders and debris and granite.
The view from the summit of Cadillac Mountain shows islands dotted throughout the Gulf of Maine.
Scenery from Acadia’s Loop Road
We completed the loop road over a couple of days and stopped at several pull outs for amazing views.
Little Cranberry Island Nature Tour
The trip to Little Cranberry Island was a big hit for us. We saw the Bear Island Lighthouse (1839) off Somes Sound.
The seals were playing around Bunker Ledge’s. The torch (as depicted in the Frederick Church painting) is gone now, but back in the day they kept whale oil so stranded souls could light the torch to be rescued.
A bald eagle perched in a tree on the shoreline caused great excitement when it flew by our boat. Maine is estimated to have 800 breeding pairs of bald eagles. Although no longer endangered, bald eagle sightings are rare and thrilling.
We also saw two osprey nests.
Acadia now has two rare peregrine falcon habitats, including an aerie identified by the white streaks in these rocky cliffs in Somes Sound.
For 25 years there were no Peregrine Falcons nesting in Maine. DDT and other pesticides almost obliterated peregrine falcons by the 1960s, but they have been slowly reestablished through intense conservation efforts
The ranger talk also included information on lobster fishing and Acadia NP’s efforts to provide access for native Wabanaki to harvest sweetgrass and brown ash to make traditional sweet grass baskets.
Summer homes
The Little Cranberry Island visit to the small town of Islesford started with the harbor, small shops, a boat building exhibit, and historical talk.
We strolled down the main street past shingle style houses and a church.
Many houses featured gardens. We are already dreaming of returning to stay longer.
South Bubble Trail
The “bubbles” are a matched pair of mountains near Cadillac. Joe’s hot one-mile hike on the South Bubble trail was rewarded with great views of Jordan Pond.
The views of the bubbles from across Jordan Pond were just as striking.
Jordan Pond House
The one hour standby line at the Jordan Pond House was worth it for the gorgeous scenery and plentiful food.
We had a grilled lobster and brie sandwich and lobster popovers. We ate the generous portion of lobster from the popovers and then added butter and jam to eat the popover separately. Yum.
The property featured a colorful cottage garden.
The walk around Jordan Pond was delightful.
Carriage Ride
We thought the one-hour Carriage Ride was a bit under whelming but we could not get reservations for two-hour tour of Rockefeller’s Bridges.
Wild Gardens of Acadia
These gardens highlight the ferns and native plants found throughout Acadia NP.
Schoodic Peninsula
When bad weather cancelled the Puffin and Lighthouse Cruise we pivoted and drove an hour to the Schoodic Peninsula, the only part of Acadia NP found on the mainland.
At sheltered Frazer Point the harbor was tranquil. The Wabanaki people who traveled and camped in this remote part of Acadia for thousands of year called this area “eskwodek” or “the end”.
Schoodic Point is geographically exposed to today’s nasty weather. The rugged coastline has a scenic but more secluded splendor than the Mount Desert Island (MDI) section of the park.
FOOD
Thurston’s Lobster Pound
In the tiny village of Bernard on the quiet side of MDI overlooking a peaceful harbor is some of the best lobster ever served.
Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound
The next day we conducted the battle of the lobster pounds and went to the Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound. Joe thought the lobster stew was the best ever. I thought the blueberry pie was the best ever.
Thurston’s Lobster Pound
On our last day it was back to Thurston’s where we had haddock stew and a lobster BLT.
ETCETERA
Bass Harbor Head Light Station
Bass Harbor sits precariously on the edge of a rocky cliff face. It was difficult to get a perfect picture unless you were nimble and brave. I was neither. Joe did his best and took one for the team.
We went to the other side for a closer view. The channel bells clanging eerily through the fog were barely visible.
Asticou Azalea Garden
Influenced by classical Japanese garden design, Asticou Azalea Garden in Seal Harbor features native and exotic azaleas, blueberries, mosses, stones, and water, and provides a peaceful place for reflection. Our visit was based on the recommendation of local photographer Jack Ledbetter from Albany.
And a quick peek at the trail to the nearby Thuya Garden.
Campground
Our campsite was one row back from the beach at the KOA Bar Harbor Oceanside.
We enjoyed the campground’s water views, particularly at sunset.
Acadia’s lakes and mountain topography reminded us of Glacier NP, one of our favorite national parks. We can’t wait to see more of Maine. Coming up next the Canadian Border then Mt. Katahdin.